By Lorna Ogilvie FRSGS, RSGS Trustee

This year, 2026, in celebration of their 130th anniversary sailing the Norwegian coast, Hurtigruten offered a unique 6 day Expedition (HX) Cruise from Tromsø north of the Arctic Circle exploring the Lyngen Alps, Lofoten islands, mountains of Vesterålen, and the island of Senja with nature landings and zodiac small boat trips.

On the first day, 15th February, equipped with crampons, a head torch, and poles we landed at Åreya towards dusk and climbed upwards to hear the Expedition Historian explain the importance of a WW2 bunker nearby. On reaching highest point, the importance of this location within the fjord network became obvious. Descending back to the beach bonfire, by torchlight, through the silent forest was unforgettable.

From the landing on day 2 on the island of Senja, where settlement dates back over 2000 years, we walked through the woodland to the small group of houses, including the old church of Tranøya built in 1773, and a small museum explaining the history of the area. The coffee pot and warming log fire were welcomed as we saw how primitive, but clever, the heating systems in the old buildings were.

Evenings on board, aside from excellent food, included informative lectures from the Expedition team who each had expertise including the landscape, environment, local climate, marine biology and history.

Next day we docked unexpectedly in Narvik, due to anticipated bad weather further south. This allowed us to visit the outstanding, recently built, Narvik War Museum. Imaginative, informative displays included many vehicles and local accounts of how WW2 affected this part of Norway, despite its northern location.

On day 4 we reached Svolvaer in the Lofoten Islands, a beautiful, atmospheric, historic port. I joined a guided walk, in the snow, around the harbour to hear about the history of the fishing industry. It was very informative. Our guide, a local, explained the changes that have happened in recent years as shipping has modernised, and the cod-based industry has changed.  We saw the racks used to dry the fish later in the year, and were saddened, but unsurprised, to hear that global warming is having a direct effect locally. As the waters around Lofoten warm up, the fish are moving further north to spawn, and the future of Svolvaer as the centre of fishing in that part of the coast is at risk.

The increasing influx of tourists from around the world, especially Asia, brings money but is also creating issues in this remote area around accommodation, and the provision of basic services.

Next day we sailed to the entrance of stunning Trollfjord, which I have visited in summer. Ships virtually spin around on the spot, very close to the fjord walls. Apart from a thick mist, our Captain was concerned about possible avalanche activity so sadly we could not enter and continued north through the passage between Vesterålen and Lofoten islands, before donning our all-in-one warm padded suits for zodiac cruising around the small islands. Many contain family holiday homes which city-living Norwegians use in summer.

That evening we docked at Stokmarknes to visit an amazing new museum constructed around MS Finnmarken, one of the early Hurtigruten ships. After dinner onboard, we were free to explore and see how passengers travelled many years ago!

Cruising northwards back to Tromsø, in spectacular scenery, our final day included zodiac landings on Sandøya island. Exploring the white sandy beaches, and climbing up for views towards the mountains, gave us an appetite for the reindeer burgers being cooked on an open fire on the beach!

During the early part of our voyage there were a few sightings of aurora, but the last night was unbelievable. The Captain had to delay his farewell, and we had the most amazing show overhead for nearly an hour. The cruise title was “ Arctic Expedition under the Northern Lights” - it delivered in every way!